Simmered Yellow Squash

Yellow crooknecks are a popular summer squash in the South. Fresh from the garden vegetables are not meant to be fussed with. The simpler the better. When simmered in their own juices, their flavor becomes clear and concentrated. Here the squash and onions must cook slowly and should not color at all. Stir often but carefully-especially when the squash approaches doneness-so the slices remain whole. I swear I could eat this whole recipe. This is my favorite yellow squash recipe.

Makes enough to serve 6-8
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4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
2 medium Vidalia onions, peeled and sliced into 1/3-inch wedges (2 1'1 cups)
9 yellow crookneck squash, washed trimmed, and sliced crosswise into 1/3-inch slices (8 cups)
1 teaspoon salt, more or less, to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or or less to taste

Heat the butter until foaming in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Add the onion wedges, and cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the sliced squash, salt, and freshly ground pepper, and stir well to coat the squash with the butter and seasonings. Reduce the temperature to low, and cook, covered, for 20 minutes or longer, stirring often, until the squash is very tender and yielding. Taste care fully for seasoning, and adjust if needed. Serve hot.